ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
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My partner could not find any crack and when he tested it as you suggested the sound of the sparker was normal, so dont think that there is a crack there, he has cleaned up the burner around the ignitor and tried it with the gas, it ignited first time as it nornally did from cold, left it on for a while then turned it off and it reignited without any bang, so we will try it out again over the weekend, if it still banging, as Arnold says WELL BE BACK. thanks for your help sheila.
Also what is the ring pull as seen from outside the vehicle when the cover is removed. Concernining the gas supply are there any safety measures as two where the tank should be situated compared to the heater itself and can i just take the supply off of the cooker supply and keep the required pressure for both units Cheers graham
Other questions. Apart from the above it would appear that the outer flue cover is starving the flame of oxygen so is that clear?. When it is lit is the flame pure blue about 40mm high?. Is the inner alloy plate in position?. Are there any soot deposits on the fins above the burner?. What do the burner ends look like are they reasonably free of rust?.
Tried burner without inner cover but wind was getting in too much and blowing flame everywhere. Put inner cover on and all seemed fine, it kept going. Put outer cover on flame went out. Sorry don't know what you mean by burner ends. There is a rectangular box with a series of holes in the top, are the burner ends under this? I did brush out what i would class as a decent amount of rust from around this box. Thanks. Steve.
The common cause of the burner rotting away is a leak from the 'fusible plug' set in the fins and or the 'quick drain valve' in the top left corner, or it could just be the way it faces over winter. You cannot buy just a burner rail and a complete 'Burner Module' will be needed, these are £63 from Arc Systems or latest list price new from elsewhere is £102. Gary http://www.arcsystems.biz
Carver used to supply a 'Frost damage upgrade kit' which in the event of frost damage to the original tank this kit could be used and the cost offset against needing a new gas only tank anyway. Problem now is the kit is not available and although most bits for it are, the plastic box that covers the electrics is not. To find a secondhand box plus assembling a kit today I would estimate to cost around £180, at the rate the heater uses gas it would take years to recoup this outlay.
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It is possible for water to get into the module from outide but only if the rain is driving into the top righthand corner of the flue outside and only then a very small amount. Most likely cause of it happening twice is a leak from either of the water pipe connections or a leak from the tank seal, all of which will end up in the module. To test give the pipes a tug sideways and if the plastic fittings are weak they will snap off, next remove the insulation jacket and grab the tank at the inside end, now try and rock it side to side... it should not move. Another possible is a hole in the underside of the tank and again this will run along and drip into the module, if you can feel any 'scab' like lumps on the underside this will prove the likelyhood of a leak
Mirco switches usually won't switch the pump on when faulty but sometimes the tiny 'C' spring used can 'pop' off and and fall between the two contacts making a permanant connection.
I once was trying to sort out why a friend's narrowbat kept flattening it's "domestic" battery. It was only when she told me that she'd had to change the water pump fuse to a 25a one that I twigged. The demand pump was a powerful pressure one (not like the little impellor one on my Metorite) and was running until the pressure stalled it. Thank god I found the problem and re-adjusted the pressure switch - she had underfloor heating from the pump cable which was only rated at about 10a, not the 20-odd amps of stall current - it's a wonder that it hadn't caused a fire.
The Carver Cascade 2 is a 9 litre storage water heater, which when running on gas will heat the water to 65deg c in about 45 minutes. On 240V mains assuming it has this facility, the time can be somewhat longer or shorter depending on the wattage (630w 3amp to 840w 5amp) of the element fitted, you can use both gas and electric together for faster times. To operate the gas there is a wall switch or a switch within a main control panel, either way both have three lights green, amber and red. When switched on the green lights, (water tank must be full, i.e. water coming from hot taps), if it stays on after about 8 seconds then the gas has lit and all is well. If the green is joined by the red then you may have a problem, but if the gas bottle has just been changed then air in the pipes will have to be bled through by repeating the above 2 or 3 times. Once lit, and it should light without any pops and bangs, (this would indicate it needs a service), the heater looks after itself and gives constant hot water. Any problems will cause it to shut down safely and show the red light. Forget the amber light, it’s to show low voltage and won’t light unless the voltage is so low the heater and everything else packed up long since, though you may notice it ‘flash’ as the switch is turned on or off. The 240v emersion heater if fitted is totally separate, and lies behind a white plastic box on the inboard end of the water tank. It is controlled by a switch, often close by and at floor level, but again sometimes as part of a remote control panel. The switch has a red light to show it’s “on”, not that it’s working, this will be determined by the water getting hot. If it does not then it may have “tripped” Two types exist, early circa 1990 are non-re-settable but are repairable. Later models have a Red button on the end of the plastic box which is sometimes behind a little flap. Switch off mains, and press to reset. Other faults concerning the gas side very often come down to the “Burner Module”. This handy little unit contains the burner, gas valve and all the electronics which control it and is accessible from behind the cover outside of the van. In the event things go wrong it’s a 5 minute job to replace it, with a new or serviced exchange unit. One other safety device is a wax filled ‘fusible’ plug, this again is behind the outer cover and shows itself as a 13 mm nut set in the fins above the burner. The wax will melt if things get too hot allowing hot water from the tank to spray over the burner and put the flame out. This will render things safe but will require a new module because it’s control circuitry is faulty. However given if the fuse 'blows' without the water apparently getting to hot then replacing the plug will be sufficient. The point to note here is that over time the wax in the plug degrades or the threads leak, at the very least allowing water to seep onto the burner causing it to rust and eventually will still require replacement of the whole burner module. Further problems that come to light in spring is the discovery of frost damage to the water tank, the non-return valve which is part of the cold water inlet and other plastic fittings. Failing to drain the heater when there is a chance of temperatures dropping below freezing can be very expensive to repair and should be avoided by removing the drain bung and allowing the heater to drain completely. Later models have a valve above the drain hole in the top left corner of the flue cowl, these have a ‘toggle’ showing that when turned a ¼ in any direction will allow air into the tank and assist the draining. Older models still have the valve but the flue cowl needs to be removed and the valve end pulled to open it, in this case opening all taps in the van will do much the same thing. It is most important that the drain bung is then only placed back into the hole and not screwed in, any water left in the system can then drain away. Frost damage to the tank will be obvious by the leaking water from the damaged seal, the damaged non-return valve quite often will prevent water coming from the hot taps although the cold water flow will be fine. Other fittings are often cracked by the pressure of the frozen water and will leak on refilling the system.
I have a Carver Cascade 2 fitted to an ex-B.T. wagon. I have just dismantled the burner unit to find that what used to be a tube within the square burner unit is almost completely rusted away. I do have the ability to make a replacement but have no idea what it used to look like before it became a pile of rust! Can anyone help with any ideas or a source for parts. thanks Del
We noticed a water leak from the region of our Cascade 2 the other day and upon investigation found that it was from the water outlet union which sheared completely the moment I touched it. I'm still trying to remove the remains of the old one - a large stud remover just enlarged the central hole even though it provided tons of torque. I believeyou knock a large screwdriver into the hole and try to undo it with that - any other ideas ? - I don't suppose easing oil would help on a plastic/aluminium joint. What do you charge for a replacement union ? is it a standard pipe thread ?
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Edited by gary 4 July 2005, 7:45 PM
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