ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
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I'm guessing the gas valve has stuck down over winter and this has popped the 1A fuse, depends which switch you have as to where you will find the fuse.
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or the red follows the green after about 10 seconds? Either way it's a fault with the burner module which will need replacing
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There i have a carver cascade2 water heater which will not ignite and fire up when you slide the switch the igniter sparks once ( and as soon as you slide the switch green and red come stright on together with NO delay can anybody HELP !
Solution is to replace the valve, only problem is how?! so when you buy the bit from me I supply a help sheet to show exactly how in pictures. Your fire is lighting on the pilot light but the main burner is not kicking in, cause is the piston within the valve is sticking and staying down when you release the control knob. Contact direct for details
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This could also apply to you Jim hence my question, if however green is lit on own? then it's possibly a control switch fault and this fault may also apply to you John. Not bad that? three questions answered in one!!
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I have a Fleetwood Colchester caravan with Carver Cascade 2 GE installed. It has given good service but has developed a small split underneath the water tank about 1" x 1/4". Can it be repaired? I believe that new tanks are not available. Second problem is that, although I replaced an element some years ago, I can't remember how to remove the tank from the heater. I am sure that this has been dealt with in the forum before but I have looked at so many postings that my brain hurts! Can you help? Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
Does the tank 'rock' at all on the heat exchanger or is it solid and unable to move on the heat exchanger? Now the alledged overheating, if indeed the water did freeze then this will quite probably weaken the plastic stem of the fusible plug, beyond that you may have caught it while doing the repairs with the same result. If snapped then simply replace, if though the heater has actually overheated, this means the water getting in the module has done more harm than you'd hoped and will need replacing. Fusible plugs are now very hard to find, I have them though!
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To remove the tank you first need to remove the plastic box that houses the electric element you replaced, underneath you will find the nut and collar that holds the tank on to the tie rod. Don't know why your email failed to arrive, nothing wrong this end?, theres another email link below if you want to try again
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I removed the fusable link, there is just a hole where I presume the wax element should be. As a test I blocked this hole with a self tapping screw & fired up heater, after 20 mins the water from the tap in the van is boiling & if left longer the pressure relief valve opens, so its def overheating. I dont know if there is a temp control stat or if as you say the control module is faulty (how does the module know the water temp?) I will reclean control unit PCB tomorrow, if no good perhaps you can provide a replacement. Thanks again Tony
Thanks very much for getting back to me so quickly. I will take off the tank as soon as I can, it would probably be best to contact you by phone for more details.
Contact direct for details/prices of my serviced exchange module ___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to add your own question, just click on any 'reply to this message'
i have just bought a caravan with the fanmaster 4000 fitted.. the controls all seem to be working but there seems to be no difference in the heat output on the 1kw and 2kw settings on the slide. On the 2kw setting the fan speeds up but the heat does not SEEM to do so. I had this exact same heater in a van over a year ago and from memory i thought it should be warmer but cannot be sure. Can anyone suggest a way of testing if all is ok or is there a common fault that would explain this. P.S when i move to the 2kw from the 1kw there is another small click like a relay kicking in but would this happen anyway if the 2kw element is not working?? or is it possible for an element to be working on reduced output?? p.p.s also if i needed a new element is there two seperate or one double element and HOW MUCH are they.... sorry for all the questions but wanted to cover my concerns
that function seems to be working
The elements connections are behind the gas control rod on the right side of the gas heater, it's a long slim box held by a screw at the bottom. Once you have the cover off, you can check the resistance across the pins of each element, as ones working then it's simple enough to check you have the same resistance on both, about 60 ohms. One I think you will find is dead. New ones are currently akin to hens teeth? I've got one! However I've also found an overseas manufacturer who's in the process of quoting for supplying fresh stock, it will though be later in the season before I have them.
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I have recently purchased an Elddis Vogue Cyclone fitted with a Carver Fan master, the red led on the main switch illumnates but none of the 5 led on the fanmaster control illuminate. The fuse behind the control switch seems to OK, any ideas. Sandy
Messages 2641 to 2660 of 3091. « Previous 1 ... 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 ... 155 Next »
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Edited by woodvale 1 April 2009, 11:21 PM
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