ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
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Got the remains of the old union out now - used an electric soldering iron to melt a couple of slots and it unscrewed easily.
I eventually got it out by heating a screwdriver and pressing it into the broken end of the spigot. After the plastic had cooled and set hard again, it turned out fairly easily. I am a plumber and to me the thread looks like 3/8" BSP. It should be possible to get a 3/8" male iron to 15mm copper connector into it then fit a standard 15mm non return valve on to that. Del
the non-return valve is on the inlet at the bottom. But the thread size seems to be the same on both conections. Any chance of describing what the inside of your burner looks like? Mine is just a pile of rust so I can't see what it used to be like. Del
It's nice to know you got the broken bit out Dave even though you were a hairs breadth from smashing your heat exchanger casting with that stud extractor?...never use a stud extractor as it will dig into the plastic and quite quickly split the alloy. The easy and 'safe' way is to saw it into 4 and one quarter in half again with a junior hacksaw blade taped to a screwdriver..just until the blade scratches at the metal threads. Now tap the pieces out with a cheap 'watchmakers' type screwdriver used as a chisel. The thread is 16mm and if a tap is not to hand a clean towball bolt with a 'V' slot sawn 'up' the threads will clean up the threads in the casting. Clean the 'land' for the 'O' ring seal with a shape wood chisel. Replacements are £4.50 for the outlet and £6.50 for the inlet with the non-return valve.. both inclusive of P&P. On the burner question it is not sold as a spare part, the module is a 'module', ie, a collection of parts set up as a unit to work together, and can only be sold as such. As far as the problem with the circuit board with no spark...much the same applies although the yellow light is low voltage and this needs investigation first. I can only agree about the thief's of these heater as it is very quick to get them out...seven minutes is my record and thats taking care not to damage the van!!. Last year it was the Goole area and about 70 went missing from two storage sites...makes you think where all those for sale on ebay come from??. The water for the heater is 'teed' off from the cold water inlet and a quick way to seal it is to fold back the pipe where it entered the water heater and use a tie wrap to hold it like this, or just use a pair of mole grips to clamp the pipe.
Incidently I've inserted a tap in the pipe from the T-joint to the cascade input connector - I got it from a garden pond shop quite cheaply. It makes it easy to isolate the heater when you just want cold water.
I can only guess this is what has happened to yours and the excess gas is causing the 'explosion', it's a replacement burner module I am afraid. Gary http://www.arcsystems.biz Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
Thanks for that. What is the cost of a replacement module and do you need the old one? Time is a factor with me as I shall need it for the end of July as I will be Green field caravanning for a month. Cheers
I doubt there will be a problem for the end of the month...but it is the silly season??
Cheque is written and in the envelope, all I have to do is drag myself away from the computer and go to the post box. Many thanks for your help. Adrian
You need a multimeter to make it easy and you set it to DC volts which if it does not say DC is shown as a line with a dotted line below it. If you have not got one then Maplins or Currys etc sell simple ones for a fiver or so. Once set you put the probes into the wire connection and the reading will be the voltage at which the battery is at if there is a connection. If you have voltage here, (which I doubt because the green LED should be lit), then you need to check that it is going out. Leave the black probe in the negitive wire and move the red one to the positive fuse and make sure you have the same voltage on both sides of the fuse. You say the fuses are OK, ...how did you test them?, they nearly always 'look' OK, this don't mean they are! It's also worth looking on the back of the circuit board and make sure all the tracks are OK, sometimes one will be burnt out.
The fuses in the contro; box do look ok as I can see the wire in the glass fuse,but as you say I will try the multimeter test(when I get one tomorrow.) If the circuit board is burnt out is it hard or expensive to replace.? Talk to you later..cheers
I tested the voltage and suprise suprise 0.00. The fuses are ok as I tested them with the multimeter. Are there any other fuses related to the boiler.? What is in the black plastic wedge shaped box attached to the burner on the inside..I tried to get it off from the inside of the van but cant seem to pull it out.have I to take the whole gas heater unit out from the outside? and if so is it hard to do and reseal etc..please help as I am at my wits end.... Finbar
if you are getting 12 volts at the wire connections what I would first suspect is a damaged circuit track on the back of the board or loose fuse holders...try pinching them shut. But first you need to be sure you are getting 12 volts to the control switch and this can best be done direct from a battery to the switch without wondering if something is amiss between. The 'black box' you speak about is part of and attached to the 'burner module', it is released from outside the van and is held by two cross head screws under the gas valve on the right...there is no need to take the whole heater out. This joint is also the gas connection and of course the gas should be switched off!!. If you are in any doubt at all then ring me first before continuing.. 0115 9213175 or 07901 544431 Gary
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Edited by Adrian 11 July 2005, 0:07 AM
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