ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
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I'm not then sure how it's working without your real wax melting? but after 45 minutes, it should have reached temperature and switched off as it should? If you want to add your own question, just click on any 'reply to this message'
yes I thought wax was a bit iffy, you could see what appeared to be melted solder, i was going to just solder it up but was worried that it would be too higher melting point AND THOUGHT TO TRY NORMAL CANDLE WAX, IT APPEARS TO BE WORKING BUT I HAVE NOT DARED TO JUST LEAVE IT ON. Is the stat a stand alone part or is it part of the module?
Daz
Can you help with a Carver 3600STC Fanmaster gas fire. I have stripped it down. I know the gas supply is okay. I have lit the fire but the electronic ignition does not work. At some stage someone has removed the ignition viewing window and lit the fire with a match as I found evidence of this when I stripped it down. The ignition is conected by one green and one white wire to the caravan mains. Theres are two wires running from the plastic grey electric circuit board box, one black and one red up the control knob stem and one white wire which apperas to run to the burner unit. The electrics appear to be earthed no problem to the fire itself. How can I best test to establish if it is the electronic ignition or another problem. Would I be best sending the unit to you for a test as my access to testing equipement is nil. Many thanks
When you get the new parts from me I therefore supply a pictorial help sheet show exactly how it's done, please contact direct for details.
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___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to add your own question, just click on any 'reply to this message'
I assumed therefore that the pcb needed replacing and did so. Situation unchanged!! Have I been sold a duff board? Can I test it? Is something else causing the board to fail? I am baffled and not willing to waste another £70 on a board. (Gas heater works fine standalone)
I recently bought a motorhome with a cascade ge fitted however even though last owner described the workings , he did not actually demo it. Problem is with tap running no hot water is produced. On gas the green panel light only is lit and a small click can be heard but it doesn't ignite. On electric the emerion is lit but no hot water. I have drained & refilled but still no hot water.After looking at diagrams etc I think the problem lies with electric ignitor? is this the small black box with 4 wires into it which I can access this fom inside the van. Could anyone please offer advice on the common faults with these units starting and how to test them. a replacement unit looks available from Gary the Guru, however I could be completely missing something more obvious! Geoff Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
I would suspect your problem is on the control switch, the new board is 8amp and double the old one so will work with an old worn motor for a time, I doubt then it's at fault until it to is eventually overloaded and burns out. You will always get a correct 'no load' voltage reading, you need to check it's correct under the load of a lamp or similar. Send it to me and I'll fix it far cheaper than a new one
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The Carver Cascade 2 is a 9 litre storage water heater, which when running on gas will heat the water to 65deg c in about 45 minutes. On 240V mains assuming it has this facility, the time can be somewhat longer or shorter depending on the wattage (630w 3amp to 840w 5amp) of the element fitted, you can use both gas and electric together for faster times. If you want to add your own question, just click on any 'reply to this message'
Please can you help.... When I first obtained my carver cascade 2 water heater, I gave it all a good clean out and had to renew the inlet/outlet and the drain plug. Mine is one of the pre 1987 models, so I couldn't obtain a platis plug and instead used a radiator bleed plug. The heater worked fine, in as much as it lights first times and heats the water... However, there was alot of pressure build up when using the hot tap and the water only ever tricked out when in use. I decided that there must be a blockage in the tank, or it was the bleed plug causing problems.. so, I bought one of the substitute copper bungs of ebay and went to fit it this eve. Things did not go well!! The radiator bleed valve I'd used, had siezed solid and I had to drill out the middle, Hammer in a shaft of metal to try and loosen it and eventually had to drill out the bung completely. In many ways this was sucessful! I managed to get out the radiator valve without damaging the thread, The new valve fitted great.. and the water now flows freely just the same as when using the cold tap! My problem now lies in the fact that the water heater will not light!!!! :-( When I switch it on, the green light lights, the gas flows freely, but after 5 seconds or so, the gas switches off and the red light lights. Things I've checked are: Gas, is on and flowing. Battery is fully charged. Cable from switch has not worked loose, I've pulled it off, sprayed it with wd40 and pushed and pulled it on and off a couple of times. I'm able to flick the switch on, run outside the van and light it manually with a lighter (with the front cover off) and it stays lit and burns fine. When I switch it on, I no longer hear the igniter clicking, there is no spark. I seem to have damaged/worked something loose whilst hammering on the bung. Does anybody have any ideas what I can do to rectify this? If it involves taking of the control modul attached to the burner, how do I go about doing this? I thankyou in advance for your assistance and am confident that somebody will be able to help. Kind Regards, Apollo P.s. I'm down in Cornwall, so if there's somebody who can help and would like to pop over, I'll pop the kettle on!! ;-)
Hi Gary I have a water heater fitted to my motorhome (bus). The burner module has been damaged by heat through the leaking gasket (as your pictures show). The flame control system is not operating. After reading some of the questions and your answers on the Preloved site, I am wondering what my best options are. Should I get a new burner module from you (price please) or should I send my damaged module to you for exchange. (price please) We realise the second option would incur two lots of freight charges, hence we are thinking it would be better just to purchase the new module. Could you also give us a price for the control panel and a fuseable water plug.
A new Truma system here in NZ will cost in excess of NZD $1000. We would prefer to have the carver as it takes up less space. The Truma is too large and will not fit in the space of the Carver.
Looking forward to your reply.
Kind regards Clem Smith
PS any chance you would like to bring it to NZ and have a holiday with accommodation on us.
Your problem is with the 'burner module' and I don't see anything you've done before affecting the working of that...except that is... why on earth would you think to use WD40???? The problem and it's solution is still the same, the module electronics are faulty, this might just be a loose wire inside due to your banging but more likely more serious and the module needs replacing
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I send quite a few modules to NZ, I know air mail is around £8 so not to expensive, if you email me direct I'll fill in the rest of the details ___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to add your own question, just click on any 'reply to this message'
Thanks
Thank you very much for your advice and time taken to reply. this unit is fitted to a 1997 SWIFT MOTORHOME and is the mk2 version. By the sound of things I have overlooked one point which is a mayor feature with this unit - waiting approx 45 mins to heat up! I was expecting instant hot water as with my previous van which had a small but excellent valliant boiler. I checked the red cut out on the back which is engaged, the green light only is showing on the panel and no water appears to be leaking from unit. unfortunately the motorhome is in storage for 1 week so I will have to wait to test it. thanks again
Thank you very much for your advice and time taken to reply. this unit is fitted to a 1997 SWIFT MOTORHOME and is the mk2 version. By the sound of things I have overlooked one point which is a mayor feature with this unit - waiting approx 45 mins to heat up! I was expecting instant hot water as with my previous van which had a small but excellent valliant boiler. I checked the red cut out on the back which is engaged, the green light only is showing on the panel and no water appears to be leaking from unit. unfortunately the motorhome is in storage for 1 week so I will have to wait to test it. thanks again, GEOFF
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