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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
11 June 2009, 2:49 PM
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HJC
Joined 15 Aug 2006
3 posts
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My Carver Fanmaster Mk 1 stopped working. The lights on the control panel slow flash but no heat, no fan. If I supply 12v to the fan separately it turns fine. My voltmeter tells me that the 24ov supply to the board is OK.
I assumed therefore that the pcb needed replacing and did so. Situation unchanged!!
Have I been sold a duff board? Can I test it? Is something else causing the board to fail? I am baffled and not willing to waste another £70 on a board.
(Gas heater works fine standalone)
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
12 June 2009, 9:27 AM
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geoff
Joined 23 Feb 2009
9 posts
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Hi, I appreciate this has probably been covered before but I can't find the page which relates to a problem with my cascade 2 ge heater.
I recently bought a motorhome with a cascade ge fitted however even though last owner described the workings , he did not actually demo it.
Problem is with tap running no hot water is produced. On gas the green panel light only is lit and a small click can be heard but it doesn't ignite. On electric the emerion is lit but no hot water.
I have drained & refilled but still no hot water.After looking at diagrams etc I think the problem lies with electric ignitor? is this the small black box with 4 wires into it which I can access this fom inside the van.
Could anyone please offer advice on the common faults with these units starting and how to test them. a replacement unit looks available from Gary the Guru, however I could be completely missing something more obvious!
Geoff
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
13 June 2009, 10:05 PM
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gary
Joined 13 Mar 2002
2357 posts
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HJC, £70 for a new board is a lot of money, especially as for very little more I'll fully overhaul the Fanmaster, including a new motor and 12 month warranty!I would suspect your problem is on the control switch, the new board is 8amp and double the old one so will work with an old worn motor for a time, I doubt then it's at fault until it to is eventually overloaded and burns out. You will always get a correct 'no load' voltage reading, you need to check it's correct under the load of a lamp or similar.
I expect it will drop to zero under load due to damage already caused to the switch circuit board.
In good light, you should be able to see damaged tracks looking 'through' the board above and around the loom connections. Send it to me and I'll fix it far cheaper than a new one
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
13 June 2009, 10:10 PM
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gary
Joined 13 Mar 2002
2357 posts
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Start with this Geoff, also, what year is it?The Carver Cascade 2 is a 9 litre storage water heater, which when running on gas will heat the water to 65deg c in about 45 minutes. On 240V mains assuming it has this facility, the time can be somewhat longer or shorter depending on the wattage (630w 3amp to 840w 5amp) of the element fitted, you can use both gas and electric together for faster times.
To operate the gas there is a wall switch or a switch within a main control panel, either way both have three lights green, amber and red. When switched on the green lights, (water tank must be full, i.e. water coming from hot taps), if it stays on after about 8 seconds then the gas has lit and all is well. If the green is joined by the red then you may have a problem, but if the gas bottle has just been changed then air in the pipes will have to be bled through by repeating the above 2 or 3 times. Once lit, and it should light without any pops and bangs, (this would indicate it needs a service), the heater looks after itself and gives constant hot water. Any problems will cause it to shut down safely and show the red light. Forget the amber light, it's to show low voltage and won't light unless the voltage is so low the heater and everything else packed up long since, though you may notice it 'flash' as the switch is turned on or off.
The 240v immersion heater if fitted is totally separate, and lies behind a white plastic box on the inboard end of the water tank. It is controlled by a switch, often close by and at floor level, but again sometimes as part of a remote control panel. The switch has a red light to show it's 'on', not that it's working, this will be determined by the water getting hot. If it does not then it may have 'tripped' Two types exist, early circa 1990 are non-re-settable but are repairable. Later models have a Red button on the end of the plastic box which is sometimes behind a little flap. Switch off mains, and press to reset.
Other faults concerning the gas side very often come down to the 'Burner Module'. This handy little unit contains the burner, gas valve and all the electronics which control it and is accessible from behind the cover outside of the van. In the event things go wrong it's a 5 minute job to replace it, with a new or serviced exchange unit. One other safety device is a wax filled 'fusible' plug, this again is behind the outer cover and shows itself as a 13 mm nut set in the fins above the burner. The wax will melt if things get too hot allowing hot water from the tank to spray over the burner and put the flame out. This will render things safe but will require a new module because it's control circuitry is faulty. However given if the fuse 'blows' without the water apparently getting to hot then replacing the plug will be sufficient. The point to note here is that over time the wax in the plug degrades or the threads leak, at the very least allowing water to seep onto the burner causing it to rust and eventually will still require replacement of the whole burner module.
Further problems that come to light in spring is the discovery of frost damage to the water tank, the non-return valve which is part of the cold water inlet and other plastic fittings. Failing to drain the heater when there is a chance of temperatures dropping below freezing can be very expensive to repair and should be avoided by removing the drain bung and allowing the heater to drain completely. Later models have a valve above the drain hole in the top left corner of the flue cowl, these have a 'toggle' showing that when turned a ¼ in any direction will allow air into the tank and assist the draining. Older models still have the valve but the flue cowl needs to be removed and the valve end pulled to open it, in this case opening all taps in the van will do much the same thing. It is most important that the drain bung is then only placed back into the hole and not screwed in, any water left in the system can then drain away.
Frost damage to the tank will be obvious by the leaking water from the damaged seal, the damaged non-return valve quite often will prevent water coming from the hot taps although the cold water flow will be fine. Other fittings are often cracked by the pressure of the frozen water and will leak on refilling the system.
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
13 June 2009, 11:46 PM
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ablaze79
Joined 21 May 2008
1 posts
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Good evening all! :-)
Please can you help....
When I first obtained my carver cascade 2 water heater, I gave it all a good clean out and had to renew the inlet/outlet and the drain plug. Mine is one of the pre 1987 models, so I couldn't obtain a platis plug and instead used a radiator bleed plug.
The heater worked fine, in as much as it lights first times and heats the water... However, there was alot of pressure build up when using the hot tap and the water only ever tricked out when in use.
I decided that there must be a blockage in the tank, or it was the bleed plug causing problems.. so, I bought one of the substitute copper bungs of ebay and went to fit it this eve.
Things did not go well!! The radiator bleed valve I'd used, had siezed solid and I had to drill out the middle, Hammer in a shaft of metal to try and loosen it and eventually had to drill out the bung completely.
In many ways this was sucessful! I managed to get out the radiator valve without damaging the thread, The new valve fitted great.. and the water now flows freely just the same as when using the cold tap!
My problem now lies in the fact that the water heater will not light!!!! :-(
When I switch it on, the green light lights, the gas flows freely, but after 5 seconds or so, the gas switches off and the red light lights.
Things I've checked are: Gas, is on and flowing. Battery is fully charged. Cable from switch has not worked loose, I've pulled it off, sprayed it with wd40 and pushed and pulled it on and off a couple of times.
I'm able to flick the switch on, run outside the van and light it manually with a lighter (with the front cover off) and it stays lit and burns fine.
When I switch it on, I no longer hear the igniter clicking, there is no spark.
I seem to have damaged/worked something loose whilst hammering on the bung.
Does anybody have any ideas what I can do to rectify this? If it involves taking of the control modul attached to the burner, how do I go about doing this?
I thankyou in advance for your assistance and am confident that somebody will be able to help.
Kind Regards,
Apollo
P.s. I'm down in Cornwall, so if there's somebody who can help and would like to pop over, I'll pop the kettle on!! ;-)
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
15 June 2009, 3:27 AM
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Kowhai
Joined 28 Oct 2008
7 posts
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Hi Gary I have a water heater fitted to my motorhome (bus). The burner module has been damaged by heat through the leaking gasket (as your pictures show). The flame control system is not operating. After reading some of the questions and your answers on the Preloved site, I am wondering what my best options are. Should I get a new burner module from you (price please) or should I send my damaged module to you for exchange. (price please) We realise the second option would incur two lots of freight charges, hence we are thinking it would be better just to purchase the new module. Could you also give us a price for the control panel and a fuseable water plug. A new Truma system here in NZ will cost in excess of NZD $1000. We would prefer to have the carver as it takes up less space. The Truma is too large and will not fit in the space of the Carver. Looking forward to your reply. Kind regards Clem Smith PS any chance you would like to bring it to NZ and have a holiday with accommodation on us.
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
15 June 2009, 10:27 AM
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gary
Joined 13 Mar 2002
2357 posts
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Ablaze79, what a story?! truth is though most of it has nothing to do with your current problem.Your problem is with the 'burner module' and I don't see anything you've done before affecting the working of that...except that is... why on earth would you think to use WD40????
All I can say about that is it won't have helped and probably done more harm than good. The problem and it's solution is still the same, the module electronics are faulty, this might just be a loose wire inside due to your banging but more likely more serious and the module needs replacing
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
15 June 2009, 10:42 AM
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andyrue
Joined 15 Jun 2009
1 posts
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Hi.i have a old caravan with a carver cascade water heater,i have followed the instructions,but cant seem to get it to ignite.Red light always comes on,after about ten seconds ,i can hear it sparking,and gas was turned on.I also had filled the tank and had mains on aswel as 12 volts.Regards Andyrue
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
15 June 2009, 10:52 AM
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gary
Joined 13 Mar 2002
2357 posts
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Hi Clem and hello to NZ.
I send quite a few modules to NZ, I know air mail is around £8 so not to expensive, if you email me direct I'll fill in the rest of the details
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
15 June 2009, 12:14 PM
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Rogue Camper
Joined 15 Jun 2009
2 posts
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hi, I have a Caver Cascade 2000 water heater (circa 1997) last camping trip she decided to leak. Without any toolage removed the top two pieces of polystyrene, and I think that the leak is comming from the front end where the electrical connetions are. Can anyone advice as to what could be leaking and if there would be a sealing kit available for the appliance.Thanks
Colin
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
15 June 2009, 12:32 PM
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geoff
Joined 23 Feb 2009
9 posts
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Gary,
Thank you very much for your advice and time taken to reply. this unit is fitted to a 1997 SWIFT MOTORHOME and is the mk2 version.
By the sound of things I have overlooked one point which is a mayor feature with this unit - waiting approx 45 mins to heat up! I was expecting instant hot water as with my previous van which had a small but excellent valliant boiler. I checked the red cut out on the back which is engaged, the green light only is showing on the panel and no water appears to be leaking from unit.
unfortunately the motorhome is in storage for 1 week so I will have to wait to test it. thanks again
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
15 June 2009, 12:33 PM
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geoff
Joined 23 Feb 2009
9 posts
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Gary,
Thank you very much for your advice and time taken to reply. this unit is fitted to a 1997 SWIFT MOTORHOME and is the mk2 version.
By the sound of things I have overlooked one point which is a mayor feature with this unit - waiting approx 45 mins to heat up! I was expecting instant hot water as with my previous van which had a small but excellent valliant boiler. I checked the red cut out on the back which is engaged, the green light only is showing on the panel and no water appears to be leaking from unit.
unfortunately the motorhome is in storage for 1 week so I will have to wait to test it. thanks again, GEOFF
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
20 June 2009, 6:24 PM
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Trev
Joined 4 May 2009
4 posts
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Hi again, Must thank Gary for help in fault finding on my old boiler (no not the wife) ref May 4th with slow flow probs on hot side. I replaced the none return valve very easly and a good flow was restored and the unit heated up just fine, but the boiler fault light keeps coming on. The over temp had poped out but it reset OK and unit appears to work fine apart from this fault light. Any help would be aprecciated. Cheers Trev
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
21 June 2009, 0:41 AM
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gary
Joined 13 Mar 2002
2357 posts
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Trev, your confusing gas with electric heating?The red fault light is gas so it will come on if the gas is switched off and your heating the water with electric. The electric heating overtemp thermostat is popping because the normal temp stat is sticking, replace the normal stat and all should be well.
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
21 June 2009, 1:10 AM
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Trev
Joined 4 May 2009
4 posts
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Hi Gary, Many thanks once again for your prompt and acurate diagnosis of my problem, you are correct in thinking I did not have the gas swithed on at the time. I think probably the overtemp only poped out because the boiler did not have enough water in at the time when swithed on!!! Many thanks Trev
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
21 June 2009, 10:58 PM
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hairyone
Joined 21 Jun 2009
1 posts
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I have a new caravan (Compass reflection 1993). When the Carver Cascade 2 GE is switched on we get no hot water. Symptoms are: coldwater flows from all cold taps, no flow from hot water taps. If drain plug removed no water drains from tank. If cold tap switched on whilst drain is removed water jets out of th drain hole. We have a telltale light that indicates if the microswitch is faulty so I know it's not the switches, I can also hear the pump when a hot tap is switched. Could this be the inlet valve?
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
22 June 2009, 5:16 PM
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geoff
Joined 23 Feb 2009
9 posts
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Gary,thanks again for advice.picked my van up this morning, put the heater on for 40 mins, came back and instant hot water. (for once it would appear I bought a van with was perfect).
If I require any parts for this in future you will obviously be top of the list. Geoff
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
22 June 2009, 9:37 PM
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DAZID1
Joined 16 Sep 2006
10 posts
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Gary,
is the thermostat a part that can be changed? on the gas only version.
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
22 June 2009, 10:12 PM
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Rogue Camper
Joined 15 Jun 2009
2 posts
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Gary,
can you point out any seals that may hav gone on my cascade 2 she is gas and electric operation and any seal kits to be hadThanks
Colin
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
24 June 2009, 12:04 PM
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anth
Joined 25 May 2009
5 posts
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hello ive recently fixed the the fuseable plug on my boiler and ive noticed that when i turn on the burner it lights fine but when i turn it off it does not turn off fully the flame dies down to about a mill above the burner is this normal any ideas what to do if its not
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