ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
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First 20psi should be fine, my pumps set at 25psi and I have no problems. I would think your quick drain valve is dirty inside or the toggle that opens and shuts it is damaged and not allowing it to fully shut, it will be something very simple
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___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to add your own question, just click on any 'reply to this message'
To your problems, I'm not sure about the 'O' ring? it depends on it's size, the non-return one is about 10mm diameter and around 2mm thick. The fires control knob being loose is common and could have happened on your journey home? too much pressure in the tyres or out of balance wheels can cause it. Fridge only works on 12v while on the car towing with engine running and the alternator supplying the voltage, the 12v element needs 10amps so otherwise would flatten a battery in no time. Nothing to say about the battery except get it tested by experts. I would suggest all this and much more can be sorted with a service, given it's a private sale it's the least you should do to ensure your starting from a known point where everything is checked and safe to use
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However have you checked that the element is actually dead? there should be a resistance of 84-90 ohms between the element pins, if there is then it's only a new thermostat you need and I have those
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Got your name from Brian tucker who was trying to help with my Carver P4 but with no real success over the phone. The problem is that, having just bought the van (VW Trident Auto Sleeper), I find that the heater doesn/t work . . . or rather that it has worked sometimes and not others. Mainly, it blinks at the first setting and then the fan starts, runs for a few seconds at a fair speed and then stops. This sequence repeats for as long as I leave it switched on. The off switch doesn't work so I have to switch it off at the master switch on the panel. At Brian's suggestion I have dismounted the heater and checked all the electrical connections (as best I could), checked the power supply which shows 13.05 volts dropping to 12.50 when the fan cuts in and played around with the plug from wall switch to heater but with no success. I am suspicious of the control board at the wall (not from any knowledge basis) and I suspect that while trying to find the fault I may have blown the indicator lights on the switch for warm and hot air. Any suggestions and estimated costs would be most welcome as I am trying to get Arnold Clark from whom we bought the van, to meet the cost - or at least to contribute towards it. Hoping to hear from you at your earliest convenience ('cos we want to get on the road as soon as possible and there has been a bit of dismantling taking place!).
i have just bought a swift challanger 590 it has a carver 3000 fire when i inspected the fire i have found that the conecting rod which gos into the gas valve has snapped inside can you help me please thank you stuart
I'm having trouble with an old Truma boiler I recently purchased. I have to say I'm trying to test it without water in it, so far. Initially the unit would not start at all. The green light would come on and after 10 seconds the gas switch could be heard shutting and the red light would show. As I couldn't hear any clicks made by the ignition electrode, I pulled out the burner assembly to check it was OK. I noticed there were two electrodes exactly the same which I thought unusual. As is the way I often 'fix' things, when I re-assembled it, the ignition worked. The gas switch could be heard opening, I could hear the clicks and the gas would light for a second before the gas switch would switch off. I'm now thinking the second electrode might be some kind of thermo-couple although, as I say, it looks exactly like the ignitor, with the same wiring. However I've found this wire ends about six inches before all the others going into the main control box. (It's in the same 'harness' as the others. I also found a broken soldered connection on one of the plugs in the control box and connected the short wire to it with a crocodile clip but it has made no difference. Any help in unraveling this mystery of the wires and even better, suggestions that might lead to a functioning boiler would be very appreciated. Thanks all. Ralph
I have a fanmaster mk1 in a 1997 bailey ranger. The fan has been making a few whirring noises since we bought the van in 2007. however I thought i'd check it today as we are going away next Friday and the moment i put it on there was a faint smell of hot electrics and no fan. The heat is ok but having checked the pcb for voltage the little white plug that connects the motor is live 12v. When you spin the fan round it clicks a lot at the back of the motor. whats the quickest way to fix it? yours in grateful anticipation, Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
Mal
Further what happen if you press 'on' twice or three times? this should start the heating side working and it should then go through a start cycle. Nothing really to the switch so it's doubtful that's at fault but maybe all the playing around has damaged it in some way? For starters I'd suggest you take the fan control board out and send it together with the switch.
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A new one is not available but the Carver 3000 is really a Truma 3002 and their 'old style' control rod will fit perfectly into the valve, however the other end will need some work so it fits at the right height in the Carver case ___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to add your own question, just click on any 'reply to this message'
I assume this electrode is the right hand one at the burner as you hold the burner by it's stem? it should actually be slightly different with a short bent up end to it, the reason being it needs a good surface within the flame. My problem is, although Carver supplied this boiler to get ABI out of trouble in 83/4, it's a Trauma and I don't care much them or their problems, I just find them hard work
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Or you can whip the whole Fanmaster out and send that for complete overhaul which will guarantee it's working for your holiday. It easily packs under 4kg and it posts for £8.22 1st class
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In which case, the odd dealers still have what remaining stock there is of new ones or I sell them at a tenner on a serviced exchange basis.
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Thanks for your reply. I connected the flame recognition wire and it made no difference (the boiler wouldn't stay lit) but followed your advice to someone else on this site and pulled the plugs, carefully cleaned all of the pins and put it back together again. Presto! The boiler is now firing up every time and saying on. This forum would not be the same without you and your selflessness. Thank you very much. Ralph
Messages 2981 to 3000 of 3091. « Previous 1 ... 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 154 155 Next »
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