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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE

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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
1 August 2005, 4:57 PM
-  Edited by mad sapper 1 August 2005, 5:00 PM
mad sapper
Joined 5 Aug 2004
4 posts

For Gary,

I have a 94 Swift Challenger, on removing module it has a 97 sticker on black plastic case. It is Carver 2GE. I have tried to get some sign of life by flicking power via Din plug but everything is a dead as a do-do. I don't have any electrical test equipment so what do you suggest please.

Green light only on display. I live in Gainsborough if you do mobile repairs or are visiting area.


ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
1 August 2005, 11:48 PM
jem
Joined 1 Aug 2005
1 posts

I have read a few of the messages on the subject of carver cascade2, I have just purchased a bailey pageant de ville 2nd hand 89 model & would appreciate a bit of help with instructions as i have no manuals etc, as iam used to only on pitch electrics freestanding fan heater & the old tp2 for batterycharging & a gas kettle for hot water so have been living in the lovely dark ages 4 sumtime, albeit funtimes, so iam strapping on the L plates ready to learn, would anyone have an address or phone number for carver please, so i dont blow up my new toy, thanks for posting the number for zig, as i have a zig cp400 to some how figure out also, the last time i had any dealings with either was as a youngster so i only was told what i needed to know then & that was not to touch !!!! Thanks ...

ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
2 August 2005, 7:54 AM
Rusper
Joined 23 Jul 2005
15 posts

Hi Jem
A scan of the owners manual can be found here :-http://www.ukwebb.plus.com/cascade/
but if you make shure that the heater is full of water ( pump connected water flowing from hot tap ) then it should lookafter itself.
Brian

ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
2 August 2005, 9:25 AM
gary
Joined 13 Mar 2002
2288 posts

Following on from Brian, Carver were taken over by Truma in 1999 and since then Truma have not supported Carver products as well as they might!?.
I will help with whatever questions you have but in the meantime this is an overview of how the heater works and it's general faults

The Carver Cascade 2 is a 9 litre storage water heater, which when running on gas will heat the water to 65deg c in about 45 minutes. On 240V mains assuming it has this facility, the time can be somewhat longer or shorter depending on the wattage (630w 3amp to 840w 5amp) of the element fitted, you can use both gas and electric together for faster times.
To operate the gas there is a wall switch or a switch within a main control panel, either way both have three lights green, amber and red. When switched on the green lights, (water tank must be full, i.e. water coming from hot taps), if it stays on after about 8 seconds then the gas has lit and all is well. If the green is joined by the red then you may have a problem, but if the gas bottle has just been changed then air in the pipes will have to be bled through by repeating the above 2 or 3 times. Once lit, and it should light without any pops and bangs, (this would indicate it needs a service), the heater looks after itself and gives constant hot water. Any problems will cause it to shut down safely and show the red light. Forget the amber light, it’s to show low voltage and won’t light unless the voltage is so low the heater and everything else packed up long since, though you may notice it ‘flash’ as the switch is turned on or off.
The 240v emersion heater if fitted is totally separate, and lies behind a white plastic box on the inboard end of the water tank. It is controlled by a switch, often close by and at floor level, but again sometimes as part of a remote control panel. The switch has a red light to show it’s “on”, not that it’s working, this will be determined by the water getting hot. If it does not then it may have “tripped” Two types exist, early circa 1990 are non-re-settable but are repairable. Later models have a Red button on the end of the plastic box which is sometimes behind a little flap. Switch off mains, and press to reset.
Other faults concerning the gas side very often come down to the “Burner Module”. This handy little unit contains the burner, gas valve and all the electronics which control it and is accessible from behind the cover outside of the van. In the event things go wrong it’s a 5 minute job to replace it, with a new or serviced exchange unit. One other safety device is a wax filled ‘fusible’ plug, this again is behind the outer cover and shows itself as a 13 mm nut set in the fins above the burner. The wax will melt if things get too hot allowing hot water from the tank to spray over the burner and put the flame out. This will render things safe but will require a new module because it’s control circuitry is faulty. However given if the fuse 'blows' without the water apparently getting to hot then replacing the plug will be sufficient. The point to note here is that over time the wax in the plug degrades or the threads leak, at the very least allowing water to seep onto the burner causing it to rust and eventually will still require replacement of the whole burner module.
Further problems that come to light in spring is the discovery of frost damage to the water tank, the non-return valve which is part of the cold water inlet and other plastic fittings. Failing to drain the heater when there is a chance of temperatures dropping below freezing can be very expensive to repair and should be avoided by removing the drain bung and allowing the heater to drain completely. Later models have a valve above the drain hole in the top left corner of the flue cowl, these have a ‘toggle’ showing that when turned a ¼ in any direction will allow air into the tank and assist the draining. Older models still have the valve but the flue cowl needs to be removed and the valve end pulled to open it, in this case opening all taps in the van will do much the same thing. It is most important that the drain bung is then only placed back into the hole and not screwed in, any water left in the system can then drain away.
Frost damage to the tank will be obvious by the leaking water from the damaged seal, the damaged non-return valve quite often will prevent water coming from the hot taps although the cold water flow will be fine. Other fittings are often cracked by the pressure of the frozen water and will leak on refilling the system.


ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
2 August 2005, 9:40 AM
gary
Joined 13 Mar 2002
2288 posts

Hi, daft REME guy!
Sorry I don't do house calls but Mark at Caratec is just down the road in Saxibly if thats any use to you?..
It does sound to me though your 'burner module' needs changing and this cures 99% of all know faults!.
These are £63 serviced exchange from me.
Gary
http://www.arcsystems.biz


ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
2 August 2005, 10:56 AM
mad sapper
Joined 5 Aug 2004
4 posts

Hi Gary,

Now there's nothing worse than calling a "Sapper" REME. Aaaargh it's a different Corp and being steeped in tradition could lead to someones goolies being removed with a rusty spoon.

However I never bite an assisting hand and This Mad "Royal Engineer" can spot that you are indeed a honerable ally. Hence £63 is going to be winging it's way to you for a module.

Long may you remain the keeper of the cascade.

Frank


ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
2 August 2005, 11:10 AM
mad sapper
Joined 5 Aug 2004
4 posts

Sorry to change topic but this is a Sapper (Royal Engineer). Just for interest :-)

http://www.1stfdsqnre.com/poetry.html

Frank


ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
2 August 2005, 12:54 PM
gary
Joined 13 Mar 2002
2288 posts

Oh Dear..you learn something new every day, I though you were the REME without the Sparkys??...I served my time at Royal Ordance Nottingham so should have known better.
I enjoyed the poem though and stand corrected.

ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
6 August 2005, 5:59 PM
JohnS
Joined 8 Aug 2004
4 posts

I need some uregnt help with my cascade 2 ahead of going to France next weekend.

The burner fires up OK and stays lit but the flames seem very long and yellowy and lacking in the normal woosh and blueness you might expect from a gas flame. There is also black smoke. I’ve dismantled the mechanical bit of the burner module, the burner itself is sound and the jet is clear. There is no dampness. The other symptom is the piezo won’t stop when the burner has ignited, but as I ease away the aluminium cover the piezo does then stop. But the main problem with the flames continue.


ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
6 August 2005, 8:26 PM
bert
Joined 6 Aug 2005
1 posts

I have a cascade 2 GE water heater and it developed a leak witch seems to be comming from a nut just above the gas burner in the middle of the heat dispencers. Can you give me any advice. thank you.

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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
6 August 2005, 9:19 PM
Rusper
Joined 23 Jul 2005
15 posts

Hi Bert
I think this the overheat plug, the centre is designed to melt and spray water on the flames if the automatic controls fail.
It is relaceable, I am sure Gary will be able to supply you with one. See any of his previous posts for a link to his website.
Brian

ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
6 August 2005, 9:20 PM
metz
Joined 11 Dec 2004
41 posts

Hi Bert, sounds like the fuseable plug has given out, drain the tank remove plug, refit with new plug available from most good caravan dealers, good idea to check the non retrn valve while your working on it, that's the white valve top left-hand corner.

ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
6 August 2005, 9:25 PM
Rusper
Joined 23 Jul 2005
15 posts

I'm no expert but normaly yellow flames and soot indicate not enough oxygen to the flame if every thing in the burner is clean and not blocked then it may be too much gas, pressure too high, jet too large (cleaned with steel wire?) jet size is critical on most gas burners.
Brian

ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
7 August 2005, 10:00 PM
gary
Joined 13 Mar 2002
2288 posts

With respect to the burner problem and if it is not rotten on the ends I would suspect a blockage in the primary air tube of the burner, this is the tube the gas travels though from the jet.
If you unscrew the gas valve, (rather than the burner so as not to disturb the relationship of the burner to the ignition electrode), then you can use a test tube cleaner or a frayed piece of electrical wire to clean out the obstruction which will most likely be a spider or it's web. It's not a good idea to use air as this tends to blow it further in and makes things worse. If you are in any doubt at all don't try repairing it as this is gas and can bite!!

The water leak will be as said from the 'fusible plug' and is easily replaceable with the use of a 13mm socket and Metz's advice to check the plastic fitting in the top left corner is good, just push it sideways with the thumb and if it snaps off it is already weak.
I have both and send by mail order.
Gary
http://www.arcsystems.biz

P.S I will speak with you tomorrow George!!!


ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
8 August 2005, 8:58 AM
dave
Joined 19 Mar 2005
430 posts

HI MARK RECENTLY BOUGHT A SPRITE XL MUSKATEER 1987 WAS TOLD 91 BUT THATS BUY THE WAY ANY WAY IT IS FITTED WITH A WATER HEATER BUT I THINK ITS ONLY MAINS AS I CANNOT SEE ANY GAS PIPES GOING TOO IT AND I CANT SEE ANY LABELS ON IT AS TO THE MAKE OR MODEL FOUND THE COLD WATER FEED AND THE *!#%!@ RETURN AND A DRAIN VALVE IS THERE A CERTAIN WAY TO OPERATE IT THAT IS IF U KNOW THE MODEL FROM THE YEAR OF THE CARAVAN BECAUSE ALL THE OTHER THREADS MENTION GAS AND ELECTRIC .IF I SWITCH THE PUMP ON THEN POWER TO THE HEATER I CAN JUST HEAR IT START TO SISSLE IF THATS THE DECRIPTION IN THE HEATER LIKE A ELECTRIC KETTLE BUT NO WATER FLOWS FROM THE TAP.I THOUGHT THERE MIGHT HAVE BEEN A MICRO SWITCH ON THE TAP BUT CAN'T C 1 SO I DISCONNTED THE HOT WATER PIPE BEFORE IT REACHED/ THE TAP STILL NO WATER .ANY IDEA'S PLEASE NEVER HAD HOT WATER BEFORE IT WOULD MAKE A REFRESHING CHANGE.JUST RETURNING TO TOURING AS THE STATIC RENTS GETTING TOO HIGH.HOPE U CAN HELP WIFE'S ON MY CASE THANKS HOPEFULLY


ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
8 August 2005, 5:38 PM
gary
Joined 13 Mar 2002
2288 posts

Not sure what you have Dave?, is there a change you can email a picture or [Log in to view email]

ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
8 August 2005, 6:02 PM
JohnS
Joined 8 Aug 2004
4 posts

Thanks Gary. After posting my message I read through all this string and picking up bits here and there it seemed to point to the burner. And it is in as good as new condition. So before I got your reply I took the burner off and it did look like a very thin web down the tube. Washed it through thoroughly with soapy water, good rinse, dried in the airing cupboard overnight and worked straight away next morning. Finally can you tell me the recommended position for the bit if sensor wire in the flame. It seems to swivel in its mount and can be horizontal or point down and lower into the flame, or up and towards the top of the flame. Seems to work wheever but just thougt I'd ask.

Thanks again.

JohnS


ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
8 August 2005, 7:48 PM
Richard
Joined 8 Aug 2005
2 posts

I have a Cascade water heater with a control unit comprising of an On button and an OFF button and 3 lights, red - amber - and green. My problem is when I press the on button the three lights light up then go off, and the burner does not light. This is on gas. I have the GE model and it works fine on electric, but not on gas. I have established that the control module relay works with the pressing of the on button, but that is all. Can anyone help me please?

ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
8 August 2005, 10:20 PM
dave
Joined 19 Mar 2005
430 posts

yes no problem will do tomorrow thanks for your prompt reply

ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
9 August 2005, 0:03 AM
-  Edited by gary 9 August 2005, 0:16 AM
gary
Joined 13 Mar 2002
2288 posts

Hi John, glad you have took the time to read all the Q&A's and solve your own problem, this thread as it builds will cover all faults and their solutions and save me a lot of writing!!.
Having said that, the post below yours with all three light coming on together is a new one on me so the threads not complete yet!?.
In answer to your question, the separate flame sensor wire/electrode on pre late 1991 modules does come loose but as long as it is in the flame and not touching the burner it will work OK.
After this date though one electrode does the job of both spark and flame sensing. If it comes loose now it will still sense the flame but the spark could well be poor and light the gas slower than one second which is the maximum I would allow under test

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