ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
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And yes it will spark even if the gas valve does not open.
So to get you going the manual for the cascade will help as the fault finder will be the same apart from any reference to thermal fuses which the Caravelle does not have. Thanks to Jase for finding the manuals which are here: http://www.ukwebb.plus.com/cascade/
From what you tell me the first problem must be the panel off/on switch but the second will be the control switch under the bunk and or the module itself. Problems with this type control switch are only caused by late 91 to early 93 modules, the date of your module will be found in the bottom right corner of the front face of the burner under the word 'patented' and you get at this from outside behind the plastic flue cover and the alloy one beyond. You say you want to replace your setup, well you can get everything you need by mail order from me but I tend only to supply what you need...no more no less.
First of all I am not 100% sure if it`s a gas only or both gas and electric, I think it`s just gas. Where would the element be, on the end of the water tank? If so I have not got one. I asked the woman I bought it off if she had had the water on before and she hadn`t. Having little or no experience in water or gas and living with this problem for over a week I thought the only way to solve it was to buy a one complete, and swap it over or find someone local (Sunderland) who could fix it, or sell the thing telling them about the problem. At present I am doing all three. Thanks again Gary. Davy
I wrote this to Korky last night and should have realised!! Hi, I had not heard of this problem before last week and then two two come at once!!. Not quite a solution yet but the disscussion is on page 23/4 in ALL CARVER QUESTIONS etc. To answer your last question, the electric upgrade was once a kit you could buy and although the main parts are available the silly little plastic box that covers everything is not.
Ive just told someone a couple of days ago, how to do it, so look back through the postings. If u cant find it post again, but start a new thread, dont post it in this thread, as its not really about the tap side of things. keith P.s try page 2, cant get my taps to work without switching others on. ___________________ N.E. Leisure products, registered Powrtouch & Truma distributor, supply & fit at your door the full range of motor movers, used units repaired refurbed & sold, contact me for details at http://www.neleisureproducts.co.uk or [Log in to view email]
Thanks for the advice. This is all fine it was 32 ohms On rechecking with a nail in the electromagnet housing, there is a charge being produced by the electromagnet operating the gas valve but it is only for a fraction of a second. should this be enough to open the gas valve for a sustained period of time ?
Put another way the start cycle gives full amperage to the solenoid which will open it but once switched on there is a lower amperage though the resistor present which if it lights stays while the start cycle is 'suspended' and this is enough to hold the valve open. It would help a bit if you said what model you have but if the control board has a ten pin and a six pin connector then you may fnd you can still get these from Truma UK in Burton on Trent, they may even be able to offer some of their 'own' advice
You've given me some excellent advice on this problem and as you Many thanks,
Plus, is it still possible to obtain copies of instruction manuals for these units, and are spares still readily available? Any info welcome.......... Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
Manuals for both you can download here: http://www.ukwebb.plus.com/cascade/ For the Caravelle follow the Cascade mk1 instructions as they are more or less the same in operation, the only real difference being the cascade warms water while the caravelle warms you! P. S. and most important, the steel gas pipe from the caravelle to the main copper pipe supply system is prone to corrode and you should check that it is not pitted in anyway which will allow it to leak. If it is then again you can get a replacement from me
water is hot but exhaust is sooty and leaves marks on the side of the van any ideas thanks darren
The problem will be a blockage probably a spiders nest left over from the long layup, this will be in the inlet tube that runs though the centre of the burner or perhaps the burner ends are corroded and holed. The solution depends on your abilities, you can clean out the inlet tube and then reassembly the module correctly afterwards if you feel confident to do this. If not and particularly if the burner needs replacing then you will need a complete serviced exchange burner module. Individual spares are not available, but if the burner looks in good condition you could always get someone competent in to do the cleaning. As I said it must not be used like this as the smoke apart from the mess it is making, is a sure sign large amounts of carbon monoxide are being produced.
Thanks for the advice. I'll take a look when I get a minute, hopefully at the weekend! Regards, Trevor
Darren
The burner is part of the 'burner module' and this is held by two cross head screws under the gas valve low down to the right. Remember unscrewing these two screws is breaking the gas connection so of course the gas should be switched off The gas seal itself is a rubber 'O' ring and requires no special knowledge to replace correctly, just make sure the two screws are not crossed threaded when put back and don't use any sort of sealing compound. There is also a black foam weather seal on the bracket at the back of the burner, you should also make sure this bracket is lifted as high as it want to go before fully tightening the screws on replacment. This way the bracket will fit parallel to the recess in which it fits and ensure there is a good seal here.
Manuals you can find here http://www.ukwebb.plus.com/cascade/ and although it does not matter if fitted with temperature adjustment or not, it's important to state when ordering which connection yours uses to the control switch. Yours will be a 'din' plug, later ones used a flat four pin connection. I send a module out on receipt of a cheque to Arc Systems so you will see clearly how to change it before you start, your old one then comes back in the same box. Gary http://www.arcsystems.biz
Any help would be most welcome.
Gary
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Edited by keith 19 September 2005, 6:31 PM
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