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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
29 September 2005, 7:55 PM
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Mike
Joined 29 Sep 2005
3 posts
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Hi. I have a 1998 ABI Jubilee Rallyman. The Carver Fanmaster works fine but the motor has become incredibly noisy - sounds like bearings. Where can I get a replacement. Thanks
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
29 September 2005, 11:49 PM
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gary
Joined 13 Mar 2002
2288 posts
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Slight problem Mike as you don't say which Fanmaster you have?, the mk2 came out in 98 so it could be this one or the earlier mk1.
The difference is the mk1 had a push button control switch on the wall while the mk2 uses a slide switch on the fire top.
I have both motors so that's not a problem but before I know which you need I cannot say which is the best way forward.
I can say the mk2 suffers from the fan motor housing coming loose or being 'knocked', so if you have this one have a look at the back of the fire and make sure by moving it about that this is not the problem
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
30 September 2005, 12:15 PM
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Mike
Joined 29 Sep 2005
3 posts
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OK, the one I have has the push button control switch on the wall so it has to be the Mk1. I have had the housing off and checked for looseness etc and the motor is 'rough' when you turn it by hand - there were a few 'loose' bits in the housing which looked like bits of brushholder mechanism, so I guess that its pretty well worn out.Thanks
Mike
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
30 September 2005, 7:57 PM
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jim kilkenny
Joined 30 Sep 2005
1 posts
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Carver 1800 gas heater, doesnt ignite at all, can I manually ignite ? Any troubleshooting manuals/ help available ? thanks all
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
1 October 2005, 2:18 PM
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gary
Joined 13 Mar 2002
2288 posts
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First I would stop using it before it blows the control board!!
The new motor is £22.50 inclusive from me and is straight forward to fit if your mounting rubbers are red in colour. If black then you will need to make the hole in the centre of the top mounting slightly bigger to acomadate the larger boss on the later type motor supplied.
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
1 October 2005, 2:32 PM
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gary
Joined 13 Mar 2002
2288 posts
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Jim, you must have the electronic ignition type which has a grey box about an inch square and four inch long, this sits at the side of the control rod in a metal bracket.
Make sure the connections are all in place and that the control rod operates the white push button which switches the spark on and that the 12 volt supply is getting to the unit.
If all else fails I have new replacement ignition units and these are £40 exchange, or you could convert it to manual Piezo ignition for about £20.
You cannot light any of this type fire without using the piezo ignitor or electronic as you have, any attempt to use matches would be dangerous
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
1 October 2005, 5:07 PM
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Mike
Joined 29 Sep 2005
3 posts
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OK. I just telephoned and confirmed that I have to send a cheque with my details. Does the £22.50 inclusive mean inclusive of postage as well and do you want me to send you the old motor ?Regards Mike
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
1 October 2005, 10:22 PM
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gary
Joined 13 Mar 2002
2288 posts
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yes inclusive of postage but the old motor is for the bin! I don't want it!!
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
2 October 2005, 2:45 PM
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magstony
Joined 2 Oct 2005
3 posts
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Hi, Been on your site Gary to download the manuals for the carver2 but having problems it is downloading to word but it is all in code?? not written english...can you help
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
3 October 2005, 1:05 PM
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bellablue
Joined 3 Oct 2005
4 posts
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hi gary weve just bought a motorhome and we have a problem with the carver mk2 heater the obvious stuff we have no probs with but this is proving tricky.
If you look from the INSIDE with the cover off moving up from the bottom theres the heating element then the thermo cutout then a plastic bolt head, water is comming out from behind this bolt head,
this is not forced to be original but I have nothing to compare with.
I see you overhaul heaters so perhaps you could help.
Someone suggested it could be the central rod?????
can yoou shed any light?
C.K X X
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
3 October 2005, 1:19 PM
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gary
Joined 13 Mar 2002
2288 posts
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I was looking at getting one of these so thanks for the tip?...I won't bother!!
As for the problem theres a really good guy next door on the car forum who should answer your question...now if it was a Carver water heater question....
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
3 October 2005, 2:55 PM
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gary
Joined 13 Mar 2002
2288 posts
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The plastic bolt screws into the central tie rod and only holds the plastic box to the end of the tank, so if the water is coming from here it sounds like some frost damage has caused a leak not with the plastic nut but just behind it where the tank seals to the tie rod...or someone has not put this seal back correctly.
Also slight lower down, two bolts hold the element in and these rot away causing a leak.
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
3 October 2005, 3:28 PM
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whippy1710
Joined 3 Oct 2005
1 posts
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Help!bought a ABI Monza 1992-93, when bought we were told the hot water had overheated once melting the wax plug, rendering the safety cut out useless. We were told ok to use but only leave the hot water on when we need to. Ok then, used van last weekend hot water worked ok saturday, green light was on and all was ok. We then had steam come out of the side vent on the van followed by water coming out of the vent. We tried igniting the heater yesterday, but the red light came on after 10 seconds, why? - gas feed is fine. Also there is another switch oin the same panel in the van with just a red light on, we used this and it did seem to heat up some water, but again we did have some water come out of the vent. whay does this happen? and is the switch an immersion heater? sorry to sound so thick, but very new to all of this!
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
3 October 2005, 5:31 PM
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gary
Joined 13 Mar 2002
2288 posts
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Yes the 'fusible plug' will blow and put the burner out if the module electronics fails but to say it is safe to fit a new plug and use it again is dubious advice to say the least!!.
The problem now is most likey water in the module control under the heater and this is upsetting the flame recognition circuit, to my mind this is the best thing given the modules not safe to use and needs replacing anyway.
The other switch is going to be for the mains emersion heater and being entirly seperate has it's own temperature contol as well as over temperature control. However if the fusible plug has 'fused' so water will still come from here regardless of which source heats it. I say 'if' because in the top left corner under the vent outside is the quick drain valve, this will leak under pressure if it's cracked where it screws into the casting and could be part of the problem.
Below should help you understand the heater betterThe Carver Cascade 2 is a 9 litre storage water heater, which when running on gas will heat the water to 65degC in about 45 minutes. On 240V mains assuming it has this facility, the time can be somewhat longer or shorter depending on the wattage (630w 3amp to 840w 5amp) of the element fitted, you can use both gas and electric together for faster times.
To operate the gas there is a wall switch or a switch within a main control panel, either way both have three lights green, amber and red. When switched on the green lights, (water tank must be full, i.e. water coming from hot taps), if it stays on after about 8 seconds then the gas has lit and all is well. If the green is joined by the red then you may have a problem, but if the gas bottle has just been changed then air in the pipes will have to be bled through by repeating the above 2 or 3 times. Once lit, and it should light without any pops and bangs, (this would indicate it needs a service), the heater looks after itself and gives constant hot water. Any problems will cause it to shut down safely and show the red light. Forget the amber light, its to show low voltage and wont light unless the voltage is so low the heater and everything else packed up long since, though you may notice it flash as the switch is turned on or off.
The 240v emersion heater if fitted is totally separate, and lies behind a white plastic box on the inboard end of the water tank. It is controlled by a switch, often close by and at floor level, but again sometimes as part of a remote control panel. The switch has a red light to show its on, not that its working, this will be determined by the water getting hot. If it does not then it may have tripped Two types exist, early circa 1990 are non-re-settable but are repairable. Later models have a Red button on the end of the plastic box which is sometimes behind a little flap. Switch off mains, and press to reset.
Other faults concerning the gas side very often come down to the Burner Module. This handy little unit contains the burner, gas valve and all the electronics which control it and is accessible from behind the cover outside of the van. In the event things go wrong its a 5 minute job to replace it, with a new or serviced exchange unit. One other safety device is a wax filled fusible plug, this again is behind the outer cover and shows itself as a 13 mm nut set in the fins above the burner. The wax will melt if things get too hot allowing hot water from the tank to spray over the burner and put the flame out. This will render things safe but will require a new module because its control circuitry is faulty. However given if the fuse 'blows' without the water apparently getting to hot then replacing the plug will be sufficient. The point to note here is that over time the wax in the plug degrades or the threads leak, at the very least allowing water to seep onto the burner causing it to rust and eventually will still require replacement of the whole burner module.
Further problems that come to light in spring is the discovery of frost damage to the water tank, the non-return valve which is part of the cold water inlet and other plastic fittings. Failing to drain the heater when there is a chance of temperatures dropping below freezing can be very expensive to repair and should be avoided by removing the drain bung and allowing the heater to drain completely. Later models have a valve above the drain hole in the top left corner of the flue cowl, these have a toggle showing that when turned a ¼ in any direction will allow air into the tank and assist the draining. Older models still have the valve but the flue cowl needs to be removed and the valve end pulled to open it, in this case opening all taps in the van will do much the same thing. It is most important that the drain bung is then only placed back into the hole and not screwed in, any water left in the system can then drain away.
Frost damage to the tank will be obvious by the leaking water from the damaged seal, the damaged non-return valve quite often will prevent water coming from the hot taps although the cold water flow will be fine. Other fittings are often cracked by the pressure of the frozen water and will leak on refilling the system.
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
3 October 2005, 5:46 PM
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gary
Joined 13 Mar 2002
2288 posts
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Mags, it's not my site it's some kind guy call Richard that put them up but they are zipped files and also when unzipped are in 'gif' format so you need a picture editor to view them.
If you download the directory you want and double click that once downloaded, Windows will unzip it into 6 files. Double click anyone of these and your default picture browser should open them
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
3 October 2005, 11:50 PM
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ang2als@aol.com
Joined 12 Sep 2005
1 posts
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hi there, i have just purchased a abi target 5.70, it has a primus heating system,there is no heat and no hot water, can any one help with this?found a tank under front single bed,is electrically operated or gas?could it be a blown immersion?
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
4 October 2005, 0:23 AM
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gary
Joined 13 Mar 2002
2288 posts
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Primus used a boiler and what they called an "indirect" tank to heat the hot water, the boiler was generally quite a small grey 'box' in the gas locker.
Help you can get from Bernard Deville on 01460 220392
___________________
website: http://www.arcsystems.biz
email: [Log in to view email]If you want to add your own question, just click on any 'reply to this message'
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
4 October 2005, 11:40 AM
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Boggy
Joined 4 Oct 2005
3 posts
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I have a carver gas fire in my caravan, (ABI Award Globestar, 89), I just bought the van and originally the fire was working fine. Now, just before we are due to go away, I have found the fire won't ignite, the control on the wall (thermostat) goes green and I turn it up and it clicks then after a short while it starts flashing whilst clicking again. What does this mean as I have lost my instructions!?!
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
4 October 2005, 12:25 PM
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gary
Joined 13 Mar 2002
2288 posts
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Difficult to say but I would first check all the wire connections. Yours should be the 'Caravelle4' which uses a telephone jack type connection and these can cause problems where the gold pins push into the wires in the plug. Put both plugs on something firm and press each connector firmly with a small screwdriver to make sure they are all firmly home. The plug socket has six coresponding finger connections and with the power off lift these again using a broad bladed screwdriver blade until they sit midway in the housing.
The earth connection at the heater end will cause trouble if it gets damp, a quick fix is to run a fresh connection to the base plate from the earth of the ignition block.
___________________
website: http://www.arcsystems.biz
email: [Log in to view email]If you want to add your own question, just click on any 'reply to this message'
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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
4 October 2005, 1:07 PM
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Boggy
Joined 4 Oct 2005
3 posts
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I'm not sure what you mean by telephone connectors? but there were six spade connectors on a block which connected to the ignition block?/module?, I found a wire here broken and fixed it straight away, it looks as though a new earth has been laid and connected. I also vacumed all around the pilot light are as well as the rest of the fire and it has seemed fine so far. I'm just letting all the warm air out of the van now to see if the problem still exists. I'm sure it don't as there were a few false starts and it was originally cutting out on the higher settings. We shall see how it goes over the weekend and I will let you know how it went. Many thanks for your advise.
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