ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
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Turn off the gas first, now Un-plug the din plug from the switch and with the switch on and green lit, reintroduce the plug. If you 'hover' the plug over the socket just making and breaking contact you will hopefully get 'some' life out of the module...ticking of the spark or the gas valve opening and shutting. It takes a little practice but this will prove if the switch is faulty...if the module stays dead then that will be at fault. Either way I have both serviced exchange parts in stock Gary
Effectively the module has caused the damage but I aways say try a switch first and 'if' it blows again then I will repair it for free if you then have a module. Gary http://www.arcsytems.biz
The module is behind a flat aluminium plate which you get at by removing the flue cover outside the van. In the bottom right hand corner there are two 'pozi' drive screws which hold it in and connects the gas supply with a rubber 'O' ring seal. Sometimes the black box which is the part of the module that lives inside the van will not want to come out though it's hole, this means the box lid has popped open and you need to squeeze it shut from inside the van and start it though the hole. The electrical connection from the control switch is best unplugged and later refitted while the new module is in your hand outside the van. There is normally enough cable to allow this but sometimes the cable is tied to the cold water inlet valve and this will need to be released first. The gas connection is 'almost' idiot proof providing a little care is taken not to 'cross thread' the screws on refitting, another point is that the foam 'weather' seal on the bracket at the back of the burner is lifted slightly so that it is as high as it will go and firmly against it's mating recess on the heater body. All this you do by simply lifting the burner with a finger tip to the left as you finally tighten the screws to the right. As I said it's simply enough and many many customers do it perfectly safely, however if you are in doubt you must get it fitted or at least checked afterwards by a competent person. If the checks on the switch don't prove the switch at fault then it will be the module if the battery power is above 11 volts. In almost all cases it will be the module at fault but with the late 91 to early 93 module it could be either or both, at least I have not come across any other module dates that damages the switch.
when i switch my water heater on it works for 10 mins then gose to fail it used to get red hot now just warm and keeps failing does any one know why thanks Possible answer This sound very familiar? and is the very problem that got me into the caravan game in the first place!! Assuming the heater will start working again after another 10 minutes, then I think the heat exchanger 'over temperature' switch is being effeced by direct contact with the gas flame of the burner. The switch is protected by an extended 'fin' that pushes up against the fire box wall but with time moves away and allows a gap for the flame to pass and this quickly overheats it. You need to remove the burner at the base of the heater and bend the fin back into position which is more easy 'typed' than done?? There are a few other possibles but the main problem is it is doubtful whether the heater has been properly serviced since fitted at least 21 years ago!!!
We have just bought a Swift Challenger which has a Cascade 2 water heater. We can't get it working (we don't know how to!) Could you send the operating manual please, otherwise we could be buying parts or a new boiler and may not need one. The caravan also has a carver fire which we are not sure how to work. There are 2 clocks, I take it that it is one for the fire & one for the water. Many Thanks Maureen S Appleby
Richards manuals are available by clicking on the link and selecting which one you need
Has anyone got any sugestions? John Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
Does anyone have a user hand book they can copy or email me or tell me where i can buy one please john mitchell 07802 416121 [Log in to view email]
"our cascade 2 water heater lights every time with a nice even blue flame but will not stay alight!, anyone any ideas as to why.heres hoping jim". First check for any water leaks from the tank or the inlet and outlet, these leaks will often get into the black box below the tank and cause alsorts of problems, if it is wet you can take the 'burner module' out and a night in the airing cupboard might make it work again if it has not been wet for long. Beyond that the module may well need replacing with a serviced exchange unit. Gary http://www.arcsystems.biz
Sorry for confusing you. Yes there is a battery, all other electrical battery items work ok. When there were no lights on the heater control when switching on the watrer heater I checked for voltage on the heater control switch. I have proved that the -ve voltage is ok but there is nothing on the +ve wire. Tracing the cables back they are spliced into the +ve and -ve wires leading to the mains trasformer.
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Edited by gary 18 April 2005, 2:51 PM
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